General Help Questions

I’m getting a few quotes for having my house painted. Can you tell me why the prices vary so much for the same job?

Not all painters do the same type of job. Remember “the cheapest price and the best price are seldom one and the same”.

Note the following points:

Assuming all of your quotes are from reputable painters who are insured and members of the MPA, the major difference in prices are often directly related to the amount of surface preparation your painter will perform before the paint is applied. Surface preparation, when undertaken correctly is very detailed and time-consuming work which can take as much as 60% of the time required for the entire job.
Not all painters provide the necessary insurances such as public liability cover (this should be to $10m) to protect you should an incident occur and workcover to protect themselves and their staff.
Reputable painters use only premium products, some painters use cheap products that won’t be as long-lasting or thin them down to make them go further.

Which paint should be used on my house?

It depends on the situation but the simple rules are as follows:

Interior

Ceilings – flat acrylic to hide blemishes, not washable.
Walls – low-sheen acrylic as it is washable.
Woodwork – satin or gloss enamel as tougher than acrylic.

Exterior

Gutters, fascias, eaves, weatherboards, render, bricks, windows, doors, architraves and timber/render fences – low-sheen or gloss acrylic on all surfaces except for old sash windows which are better painted in gloss enamel as enamel is less likely to stick. Where windows are already painted in enamel we tend to re-coat in enamel.
Steel surfaces such as lacework, wrought iron, metal banisters and metal finials – paint in enamel as it is tougher and holds rust back more effectively.

Note: for a long-term finish use only exterior acrylic paints with at least a 10-year manufacturer’s warranty.

Satin or semi-gloss enamel is only suitable for interior surfaces.

How You Can Help Your Painter?

For your paint job to run smoothly and on time it is important that you do the following:

Know what it is that you want painted and advise the painter of your expectations regarding the paint finish at the time of quoting. It is very important that you are honest with the painter regarding your expectations. If you require a perfect finish on your walls for example the painter may advise you to have the walls replastered prior to painting.
Read and fully understand the quotation. Ensure all of the work you are expecting to be undertaken is included in the quote. Check that all colours specified are accurate. Understand the preparation that is to be undertaken.
Know the colours you wish to use and communicate this to your painter at least a few days prior to him/her starting. Be aware that significant colour changes can impact the price of the job if additional coats or an undercoat is required to achieve good colour coverage.
Unless previously agreed with your painter it is your responsibility to remove curtains/blinds from the windows plus rods and other large fittings. Brackets and small fittings can be left in place. This also applies to paintings etc.
Clear the room as much as possible, particularly of small items. Benches and furniture tops eg dressers should be totally cleared to prevent damage. Large items of furniture should be moved away from the surfaces to be painted, usually to the middle of the room. Small items should be cleared from the room.
Where your entire house is to be painted communicate with your painter daily regarding areas to be painted. You should be able to agree a work plan that will enable your painter to work efficiently but where your disruption is minimised as much as possible.

How often should I paint the outside of my house?

Approximately every 10 years depending on the following factors:

Acrylic paint should last approx.10 – 15 years.
Enamel paints tend to crack with age and generally won’t weather as well as acrylic paint, requiring painting approx. every 6 years.
Northern and western exposures won’t last as long as southern and eastern exposures due to the harsh weather conditions.
Dark colours fade more quickly than light colours.
Painting more frequently can be less expensive than waiting until the paint is peeling as the majority of time can be in preparation rather than painting. Old weathered timber won’t hold paint like new timber and the paint job may not be as long-lasting.
Maintaining your paint job will not only keep your home looking it’s best, it will also reduce the risk of dry-rot, termites and other costly problems that come from neglect.

Why are my natural wood exterior doors, balconies and windows so weathered after only 2 years?

Exterior surfaces painted in a clear polyurethane or oil have little protection to the weather.

A pigmented coating such as an oil-based or acrylic stain (including a polyurethane with a stain) will provide some UV protection but will still need recoating every 2 years or so. Other products which are resin based such as the Sikkens and Intergrain Ultradeck range will last 2-4 years.

What is Kalsomine and Why is it a Problem?

Kalsomine is a paint finish used up until the late 1950’s.

It was a poor product as it didn’t adhere well to the plaster surfaces. The issue with kalsomine is it deteriorates over time and essentially falls off the walls taking all additional paint layers with it. Often there doesn’t appear to be an issue until new paint is applied and generally one small area will not adhere requiring all paint to be removed. We then have to wash the surfaces and apply an oil based sealer binder to prepare the surfaces for painting.

Should I apply paint to my deck?

The best method for protecting your deck is to apply 2-3 coats of an oil-based or acrylic stain or a decking oil.

The more solid the stain the more UV and water protection will be provided. The stain or oil provides UV protection and waterproofs the timber. It will need to be recoated every 1-2 years depending on use, conditions etc.

The major benefit of using an oil or stain is that it is absorbed into the timber and will not peel. It is therefore very easy to maintain and only needs a light sand or an appropriate wash prior to recoating. Paint can peel and can be slippery therefore requiring more preparation at the time of painting. Painted surfaces may be more durable than oil however particularly in areas subject to weather exposure.

Is there something you can put in the paint to help eliminate mildew?

There are additives for paint which inhibit the growth of mould and mildew. There are also specific paints developed for moist areas such as bathrooms.

However, the surface must be properly cleaned first and all mould killed and treated. Mildew grows in damp and shady areas with poor ventilation. Bathrooms will benefit from an open window and a ceiling fan. Other areas may just need frequent cleaning.

Currently we use Taubman’s Easy Coat or Pure Performance as it contains Microbaine which inhibits the growth of bacteria including mould for the lifetime of the paint. Paint additives tend to last approx. 18 months.

What is rising damp?

Rising damp is moisture coming from the ground that is absorbed into the walls.

It is usually obvious as it causes plaster to break down and paint to blister. When we come across this we usually scrape back the peeling paint and allow surface to dry prior to filling. This does not fix the problem only makes the wall look good for a short period time as it will reappear. Rising damp specialists need to fix the problem.

When Would We Spray?

Generally we spray where there is significant time to be saved eg new homes before floor coverings are installed, factories, picket fences, some exterior brick work and stucco (where spraying is safe).

In new homes where we spray we still backroll to provide a stipple finish. We can only spray in certain circumstances i.e. it cannot be windy when spraying outside, if spraying inside all areas must be devoid of furniture, plant & equipment.